Roscoe Village Is the Small Town Inside the City

Order the shredded string potatoes — crispy, not quite fries, not quite hash browns, and better than either. Pancakes are above average. Sandwiches hold up. Portions run large enough to share. The cocktail program is the draw for drinkers; non-alcoholic options are limited to the basics. Sit outside if the weather cooperates — the front patio and back courtyard are the right way to do this place.

The Hat Yai fried chicken is the strongest order on the menu — well fried and enjoyable even if it reads more inspired-by than strictly regional. The papaya salad misses the funk that makes the dish work, landing sweet and sour without the depth underneath. Vegan and gluten-free diners are genuinely well served here. The patio and open-door energy on a good Roscoe Village day is the other reason to come.

Pink marble bar, large windows onto a quiet Roscoe Village corner, warm staff, and coffee sourced from 4LW, Metric, and Hexe. The execution is not there yet — espresso ran weak and under-extracted, milk oversteamed, pastries from Publican landed without distinction. The space is worth visiting. The coffee program needs time to match what's in the bag.

Order the fried chicken sandwich on the biscuit, not the bun. The biscuit makes it. Medium heat is the right starting point for most people — noticeable, not punishing. The pickles are excellent. Tenders are worth adding to the table. Fries are well fried and well seasoned. Skip the mac and cheese and skip both desserts — the cobbler does not deliver on the concept and the bread pudding is the marginally better of two underwhelming options. Stick to what they do well and this place does not disappoint.

Hexe isn't the best coffee in Chicago or the best pastry in Chicago. It's trying to be the best version of a great Chicago coffee shop, and it succeeds. The patio at Clybourn and Diversey is one of the finest places to sit outside in the city, the in-house biscuit breakfast sandwich has earned Southern approval, and the whole wheat cinnamon roll is a weekend-only argument for showing up early. Line is real. Moves fast. Worth it.