The Neighborhood That Only Has Two Modes

Order the akutagawa — the most flavorful version in the city, with a rich gravy that justifies the history behind it. The Korean menu is solid across the board and the right choice for quick, affordable Korean in Wrigleyville. Stay away from the American diner side: the pancakes are some of the driest in the city and the rest of that half of the menu does not recover the gap. Know what you are ordering and this place delivers.

Order the asada — the same strong call here as at the original. The rest of the taco menu and supporting dishes are reliable without being memorable. House-made tortillas throughout. Two floors with significantly more capacity than the Wicker Park location; expect a livelier, louder crowd shaped by whatever is happening at Wrigley. Cocktail program is extensive and fun. NA beers and basic mocktails available. Best used as a pre- or post-game move in a neighborhood that does not offer many better options.

Small Cheval is the focused, casual offshoot of Au Cheval, and the burger might be better. Double patty, medium rare, house pickles, sauce, and a perfect bun. Order at the window, grab a patio seat, eat it immediately. The custard concretes are not optional. Oreo or peanut butter cup is a decision you'll need to make on your own.