Don't Call It Fusion. Call It Superkhana.
Chefs Yoshi Yamada and Zeeshan Shah's Michelin Bib Gourmand Logan Square restaurant lets farm-fresh ingredients live through Indian spice geometry, and it delivers every single time.
Chefs Yoshi Yamada and Zeeshan Shah do not want you to call Superkhana fusion. Fusion implies force, two things pushed together until they comply. What they are doing is different. Farm-to-table cooking where the ingredients exist through Indian spice geometry. Enhancing, not combining. The distinction matters and you taste it immediately. The food makes sense in a way that forced things never do, and it never lacks flavor.
Yamada came up at Lula Cafe, Logan Square's other institution, before opening Superkhana with Shah in 2019. When it opened it was the restaurant everyone was talking about. It is no longer the center of that conversation, which is one of the best things about it now. You can get in. It still has its Michelin Bib Gourmand. It still delivers. The hype cycle moved on and the restaurant stayed exactly where it was, which is exactly where you want it.
Walk in and the kitchen announces itself before you sit down. The warmth hits you at the door. The kitchen is open and you can walk up and watch them make the naan, the naan pizzas, the calzones. Watching food get made well before you eat it is its own kind of anticipation.
The mains rotate with the seasons and the kitchen's instincts are consistently sound. The katsu curry made with sweet potato is crispy and delicious and the kind of dish that makes you stop mid-bite to reconsider what you thought katsu curry could be. The kaju noodles are rich, creamy, and filling in the best way. On our last visit the table spent a meaningful amount of time debating whether the eggplant bao or the pork bao was better. We never reached a conclusion. What we reached was the understanding that you cannot go wrong with either, which is its own kind of answer.
Weekend brunch is worth your attention too. The same Indian-inspired approach brings genuine life to traditional brunch dishes. The dosa hash and the french toast are both standouts. And unlike most places worth eating at in Logan Square on a weekend morning, you can actually get in without engineering your entire day around it. There is even a walk-up window for grabbing and going. On Diversey, off the beaten path just enough to feel like a find. Go tonight if you can.
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