Oiistar's Ramen Started With a $65,000 Noodle Machine
Chef Yim's Wicker Park ramen staple earned its reputation through its 18-hour broth
When Chef Yim opened Oiistar in December 2012, he was a self-described ramen-obsessed cook who had spent years frustrated by what Chicago had to offer. He spent roughly a year in development before the first bowl went out, which included sourcing a $65,000 custom noodle-making machine from Japan. That is not a casual commitment to a restaurant concept. And the noodles are worth it.
The broths are where the kitchen earns its credibility. Yim's flavors lean global and modern — his Korean background shows up in the way he approaches seasoning and spice — but the broth process is traditional and uncompromising. Pork-based, simmered for roughly 18 hours, rich in the way that only time and patience produce. The fusion impulses are in the toppings and the non-ramen menu, not in the foundation. The foundation is serious.
The noodles are made in house and the difference is noticeable. Gluten-free noodles are available, and there are solid vegetarian and vegan options if you need them, which makes this an easier place to bring a group with mixed dietary situations than most ramen spots.
The non-ramen menu rewards the curious. The steam buns are excellent and this is where Yim lets the fusion instincts run a little more freely. Ingredients like mashed potatoes, cotija cheese, and crème fraîche show up alongside the Japanese bites, and it works more often than it has any right to. The combinations sound like a dare and eat like a decision.
The room is dark and minimal. Short tables, wooden stools, a moody interior that takes itself just seriously enough without being precious about it. Service is friendly and helpful. Right off Milwaukee, Oiistar has been a Wicker Park fixture for over a decade because it keeps doing what it set out to do from the beginning.
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