EaThai Is Fine. I Wanted It to Be More.

EaThai comes with a lot of reverence attached to it. The founder opened this with one of the first Lao chefs in the city, which is a genuinely interesting credential and the kind of origin story that raises expectations before you even sit down. I went in wanting to love it.

I didn't love it. I didn't dislike it either. That's the whole review.

The food is competent and complete. All the classic Thai menu items are here and they're executed well enough to satisfy a craving. The som tum was good. Not funky enough for me personally, but I have a Thai mother and a high bar for what fermented funk should taste like, so take that with appropriate context. The khao soi reads a little sweet compared to what I'd call an authentic version, which is a common American accommodation I've made my peace with in this city, even if I don't love it.

The dish I come back to most is the guay teow neau, the beef noodle soup. The broth is deep and rich and genuinely good. The meat portion is skimpy enough that you end up eating mostly noodles, which is a frustrating ratio when the broth is the reason you're there.

The interior is simple and clean. The outdoor seating is good if the weather cooperates, and sitting outside with a breeze when your food is making you sweat is one of the better casual dining experiences the city offers in summer.

My expectations were probably too high going in. That's on me as much as it's on the reputation. But EaThai is a solid neighborhood option for the Avondale and Logan Square area when you want Thai food and don't want to travel far for it. It will get the job done. It just won't make you forget about the places that would have done it better.