Bonci Bringing Classic Roman Pizza Straight From Italy. Chicago Should Be Grateful.

Roman pizza is not Neapolitan pizza. It is not Chicago deep dish. It is its own thing, defined by three specific decisions that Bonci executes as well as anywhere in the world.

First, the dough. It goes through a 48-hour fermentation process that develops flavor and creates a structure light enough to be airy but substantial enough to hold serious toppings. Second, the bake. It goes into the oven on a sheet pan, baked in a good olive oil, and comes out looking something like focaccia — golden on the bottom, substantial through the middle. Third, the cut. Squares. Sold by weight. You point at what you want, they cut it, they weigh it, you pay. No slices, no pies, no decisions about how many people you're feeding.

The crust here is the reason to come. Light and airy, nice crisp on the bottom, a chew that actually rewards you for eating slowly. Bonci doesn't play it safe with toppings either. The selection changes hourly based on what's available and what's fresh, which means every visit is slightly different. Expect a range — traditional meatball, potato and rosemary, lemon, combinations you wouldn't have thought to ask for. A couple of pieces is genuinely enough, which makes this one of the more reasonable meals you can eat in this city.

It's excellent for grabbing and going. If you take it away, they'll ask whether you want it heated there or at home. If you're reheating at home, the move is simple: get your oven as hot as it will go, put a sheet pan or cast iron inside while it preheats, then drop the pizza on the screaming hot surface for a couple of minutes. The bottom crisps back up, the toppings warm through, and it tastes like you just picked it up.

This is a great midweek dinner. It's also a great lunch, a great late afternoon snack, and a great reason to walk slightly out of your way.