
He Said Yes at Boka. The Food Was Reason Enough on Its Own.
Boka is a Michelin-starred restaurant on Halsted that would be one of Chicago's best even if it didn't hold the most important moment of my life.
I worked with the staff ahead of time. Snuck them the ring when we walked in. They brought it out with dessert at the end of the meal. Allen said yes. I am telling you this upfront because Boka will always be a seminal place in our relationship, and you should know that going into this review. It means I cannot be fully objective. It also means that everything I say about this restaurant is coming from someone who has sat in that room during the most important dinner of his life, and still thinks it is one of the best restaurants in Chicago on the merits.
The entrance is set back from Halsted, offset from the street, framed by beautiful planters full of flowers. It is inviting without announcing itself. Luxurious without being ostentatious. Inside, the space opens into multiple rooms that each carry their own atmosphere. Dark and sultry in one corner, light and airy in another, organic and eclectic somewhere else. They coexist in a way that shouldn't work as seamlessly as it does. Tasteful is the right word and it is not a small thing to pull off at this scale.
The kitchen has the pedigree of Eleven Madison Park and it shows in the precision. You can do a tasting menu or order à la carte and you will not go wrong with either decision. The ricotta dumplings are a masterclass in pasta texture — pillowy, served on a sauce packed with umami and finished with chicken cracklins that bring crunch and depth to every bite. The grilled octopus arrives with a perfect soft char and shaved cauliflower. The sea bass with foie is flaky and rich and the kind of dish that makes a strong case for whoever is running that station.
The pastry program is exceptional. Dessert at Boka is not an afterthought. It is a reason to pace yourself through the meal so you have room for it.
I would be singing the praises of this place even if it didn't mean what it means to us. The fact that it does makes all of it better. If you are looking for a place to mark something, to make a night into a memory, Boka understands that assignment completely. The food will hold up its end. The rest is up to you.
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