Khlong Mae Kha is a 700-year-old waterway that spent decades as one of Chiang Mai's most neglected pieces of infrastructure. The canal originally functioned as an outer moat and flood-control system for the city, but urban growth, sewage, and encroachment left it badly polluted and largely forgotten. A restored stretch of roughly 750 meters has since been transformed into one of the city's liveliest evening promenades, lined with flowers, bridges, murals, cafes, food stalls, and small shops. The comparison to Japan's Otaru Canal gets made often. The experience is much more local night market than polished Japanese replica, which is a point in its favor.

The place was buzzing when we were there. Street performers singing Thai acoustic traditional songs. Stalls selling physical goods that were fairly unremarkable. And food that was cheap, good, and worth filling up on. The Thai street food is the reason to come hungry. The Japanese skewers served in a delicious broth at around 30 baht a skewer — roughly a dollar for three — are the specific thing to find and eat as many of as possible.